email ccx074@pglaf.org. Proofed by Andrew Wallace, email








Illustrations by G. G. FRASER





_First Edition_, _April_, 1891.

_Reprinted_, _June_, 1891.

_Reprinted_, _December_, 1891.

_Reprinted_, _February_, 1892.

_Reprinted_, _February_, 1895.

_Reprinted_, _September_, 1896.

_Reprinted_, _December_, 1897.

_Reprinted_, _January_, 1899.

_Reprinted_, _September_, 1900.

_Reprinted_, _October_, 1902.

_Reprinted_, _October_, 1903.

_Reprinted_, _January_, 1904.

_Reprinted_, _October_, 1905.

_Reprinted_, _March_, 1907.

_Reprinted_, _February_, 1909.

_Reprinted_, _February_, 1910.

_Reprinted_, _November_, 1911.

_Reprinted_, _February_, 1914.

_Reprinted_, _December_, 1916.

_Second Edition_, _December_, 1919.


Said a friend of mine to me some months ago: "Well now, why don't you

write a _sensible_ book? I should like to see you make people think."

"Do you believe it can be done, then?" I asked.

"Well, try," he replied.

Accordingly, I have tried. This is a sensible book. I want you to

understand that. This is a book to improve your mind. In this book I

tell you all about Germany--at all events, all I know about Germany--and

the Ober-Ammergau Passion Play. I also tell you about other things. I

do not tell you all I know about all these other things, because I do not

want to swamp you with knowledge. I wish to lead you gradually. When

you have learnt this book, you can come again, and I will tell you some

more. I should only be defeating my own object did I, by making you

think too much at first, give you a perhaps, lastingdislike to the

exercise. I have purposely put the matter in a light and attractive

form, so that I may secure the attention of the young and the frivolous.

I do not want them to notice, as they go on, that they are being

instructed; and I have, therefore, endeavoured to disguise from them, so

far as is practicable, that this is either an exceptionally clever or an

exceptionally useful work. I want to do them good without their knowing

it. I want to do you all good--to improve your minds and to make you

think, if I can.

_What_ you will think after you have read the book, I do not want to

know; indeed, I would rather not know. It will be sufficient reward for

me to feel that I have done my duty, and to receive a percentage on the

gross sales.

LONDON, _March_, 1891.


My Friend B.--Invitation to the Theatre.--A Most Unpleasant

Regulation.--Yearnings of the Embryo Traveller.--How to Make the Most of

One's Own Country.--Friday, a Lucky Day.--The Pilgrimage Decided On.

My friend B. called on me this morning and asked me if I would go to a

theatre with him on Monday next.

"Oh, yes! certainly, old man," I replied. "Have you got an order, then?"

He said:

"No; they don't give orders. We shall have to pay."

"Pay! Pay to go into a theatre!" I answered, in astonishment. "Oh,

nonsense! You are joking."

"My dear fellow," he rejoined, "do you think I should suggest paying if

it were possible to get in by any other means? But the people who run

this theatre would not even understand what was meant by a 'free list,'

the uncivilised barbarians! It is of no use pretending to them that you

are on the Press, because they don't want the Press; they don't think

anything of the Press. It is no good writing to the acting manager,

because there is no acting manager. It would be a waste of time offering

to exhibit bills, because they don't have any bills--not of that sort.

If you want to go in to see the show, you've got to pay. If you don't

pay, you stop outside; that's their brutal rule."

"Dear me," I said, "what a very unpleasant arrangement! And whereabouts

is this extraordinary theatre? I don't think I can ever have been inside


"I don't think you have," he replied; "it is at Ober-Ammergau--first

turning on the left after you leave Ober railway-station, fifty miles

from Munich."

"Um! rather out of the way for a theatre," I said. "I should not have

thought an outlying house like that could have afforded to give itself


"The house holds seven thousand people," answered my friend B., "and

money is turned away at each performance. The first production is on

Monday next. Will you come?"

I pondered for a moment, looked at my diary, and saw that Aunt Emma was

coming to spend Saturday to Wednesday next with us, calculated that if I

went I should miss her, and might not see her again for years, and

decided that I would go.

To tell the truth, it was the journey more than the play that tempted me.

To be a great traveller has always been one of my cherished ambitions. I

yearn to be able to write in this sort of strain:--

"I have smoked my fragrant Havana in the sunny streets of old Madrid, and

I have puffed the rude and not sweet-smelling calumet of peace in the

draughty wigwam of the Wild West; I have sipped my evening coffee in the

silent tent, while the tethered camel browsed without upon the desert

grass, and I have quaffed the fiery brandy of the North while the

reindeer munched his fodder beside me in the hut, and the pale light of

the midnight sun threw the shadows of the pines across the snow; I have

felt the stab of lustrous eyes that, ghostlike, looked at me from out

veil-covered faces in Byzantium's narrow ways, and I have laughed back

(though it was wrong of me to do so) at the saucy, wanton glances of the

black-eyed girls of Jedo; I have wandered where 'good'--but not too

good--Haroun Alraschid crept disguised at nightfall, with his faithful

Mesrour by his side; I have stood upon the bridge where Dante watched the

sainted Beatrice pass by; I have floated on the waters that once bore the

barge of Cleopatra; I have stood where Caesar fell; I have heard the soft

rustle of rich, rare robes in the drawing-rooms of Mayfair, and I have

heard the teeth-necklaces rattle around the ebony throats of the belles

of Tongataboo; I have panted beneath the sun's fierce rays in India, and

frozen under the icy blasts of Greenland; I have mingled with the teeming

hordes of old Cathay, and, deep in the great pine forests of the Western

World, I have lain, wrapped in my blanket, a thousand miles beyond the

shores of human life."

B., to whom I explained my leaning towards this style of diction, said

that exactly the same effect could be produced by writing about places

quite handy. He said:--

"I could go on like that without having been outside England at all. I

should say:

"I have smoked my fourpenny shag in the sanded bars of Fleet Street, and

I have puffed my twopenny Manilla in the gilded balls of the Criterion; I

have quaffed my foaming beer of Burton where Islington's famed Angel

gathers the little thirsty ones beneath her shadowing wings, and I have

sipped my tenpenny _ordinaire_ in many a garlic-scented salon of Soho.

On the back of the strangely-moving ass I have urged--or, to speak more

correctly, the proprietor of the ass, or his agent, from behind has

urged--my wild career across the sandy heaths of Hampstead, and my canoe

has startled the screaming wild-fowl from their lonely haunts amid the

sub-tropical regions of Battersea. Adown the long, steep slope of One

Tree Hill have I rolled from top to foot, while laughing maidens of the

East stood round and clapped their hands and yelled; and, in the

old-world garden of that pleasant Court, where played the fair-haired

children of the ill-starred Stuarts, have I wandered long through many

paths, my arm entwined about the waist of one of Eve's sweet daughters,

while her mother raged around indignantly on the other side of the hedge,

and never seemed to get any nearer to us. I have chased the

lodging-house Norfolk Howard to his watery death by the pale lamp's

light; I have, shivering, followed the leaping flea o'er many a mile of

pillow and sheet, by the great Atlantic's margin. Round and round, till

the heart--and not only the heart--grows sick, and the mad brain whirls

and reels, have I ridden the small, but extremely hard, horse, that may,

for a penny, be mounted amid the plains of Peckham Rye; and high above

the heads of the giddy throngs of Barnet (though it is doubtful if anyone

among them was half so giddy as was I) have I swung in highly-coloured

car, worked by a man with a rope. I have trod in statelymeasure the

floor of Kensington's Town Hall (the tickets were a guinea each, and

included refreshments--when you could get to them through the crowd), and

on the green sward of the forest that borders eastern Anglia by the

oft-sung town of Epping I have performed quaint ceremonies in a ring; I

have mingled with the teeming hordes of Drury Lane on Boxing Night, and,

during the run of a high-class piece, I have sat in lonelygrandeur in

the front row of the gallery, and wished that I had spent my shilling

instead in the Oriental halls of the Alhambra."

"There you are," said B., "that is just as good as yours; and you can

write like that without going more than a few hours' journey from


"We will discuss the matter no further," I replied. "You cannot, I see,

enter into my feelings. The wild heart of the traveller does not throb

within your breast; you cannot understand his longings. No matter!

Suffice it that I will come this journey with you. I will buy a German

conversation book, and a check-suit, and a blue veil, and a white

umbrella, and suchlike necessities of the English tourist in Germany,

this very afternoon. When do you start?"

"Well," he said, "it is a good two days' journey. I propose to start on


"Is not Friday rather an unlucky day to start on?" I suggested.

"Oh, good gracious!" he retorted quite sharply, "what rubbish next? As

if the affairs of Europe were going to be arranged by Providence

according to whether you and I start for an excursion on a Thursday or a


He said he was surprised that a man who could be so sensible,

occasionally, as myself, could have patience to even think of such

old-womanish nonsense. He said that years ago, when he was a silly boy,

he used to pay attention to this foolish superstition himself, and would

never upon any consideration start for a trip upon a Friday.

But, one year, he was compelled to do so. It was a case of either

starting on a Friday or not going at all, and he determined to chance it.

He went, prepared for and expecting a series of accidents and

misfortunes. To return home alive was the only bit of pleasure he hoped

for from that trip.

As it turned out, however, he had never had a more enjoyable holiday in

his life before. The whole event was a tremendous success.

And after that, he had made up his mind to _always_ start on a Friday;

and he always did, and always had a good time.

He said that he would never, upon any consideration, start for a trip

upon any other day but a Friday now. It was so absurd, this superstition

about Friday.

So we agreed to start on the Friday, and I am to meet him at Victoria

Station at a quarter to eight in the evening.


The Question of Luggage.--First Friend's Suggestion.--Second Friend's

Suggestion.--Third Friend's Suggestion.--Mrs. Briggs' Advice.--Our

Vicar's Advice.--His Wife's Advice.--Medical Advice.--Literary

Advice.--George's Recommendation.--My Sister-in-Law's Help.--Young

Smith's Counsel.--My Own Ideas.--B.'s Idea.

I have been a good deal worried to-day about the question of what luggage

to take with me. I met a man this morning, and he said:

"Oh, if you are going to Ober-Ammergau, mind you take plenty of warm

clothing with you. You'll need all your winter things up there."

He said that a friend of his had gone up there some years ago, and had

not taken enough warm things with him, and had caught a chill there, and

had come home and died. He said:

"You be guided by me, and take plenty of warm things with you."

I met another man later on, and he said:

"I hear you are going abroad. Now, tell me, what part of Europe are you

going to?"

I replied that I thought it was somewhere about the middle. He said:

"Well, now, you take my advice, and get a calico suit and a sunshade.

Never mind the look of the thing. You be comfortable. You've no idea of

the heat on the Continent at this time of the year. English people will

persist in travelling about the Continent in the same stuffy clothes that

they wear at home. That's how so many of them get sunstrokes, and are

ruined for life."

I went into the club, and there I met a friend of mine--a newspaper

correspondent--who has travelled a good deal, and knows Europe pretty

well. I told him what my two other friends had said, and asked him which

I was to believe. He said:

"Well, as a matter of fact, they are both right. You see, up in those

hilly districts, the weather changes very quickly. In the morning it may

be blazing hot, and you will be melting, and in the evening you may be

very glad of a flannel shirt and a fur coat."

"Why, that is exactly the sort of weather we have in England!" I

exclaimed. "If that's all these foreigners can manage in their own

country, what right have they to come over here, as they do, and grumble

about our weather?"

"Well, as a matter of fact," he replied, "they haven't any right; but you

can't stop them--they will do it. No, you take my advice, and be

prepared for everything. Take a cool suit and some thin things, for if

it's hot, and plenty of warm things in case it is cold."

When I got home I found Mrs. Briggs there, she having looked in to see

how the baby was. She said:--

"Oh! if you're going anywhere near Germany, you take a bit of soap with


She said that Mr. Briggs had been called over to Germany once in a hurry,

on business, and had forgotten to take a piece of soap with him, and

didn't know enough German to ask for any when he got over there, and

didn't see any to ask for even if he had known, and was away for three

weeks, and wasn't able to wash himself all the time, and came home so

dirty that they didn't know him, and mistook him for the man that was to

come to see what was the matter with the kitchen boiler.

Mrs. Briggs also advised me to take some towels with me, as they give you

such small towels to wipe on.

  • sensible [´sensəbəl] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.感觉得到的   (初中英语单词)
  • passion [´pæʃən] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.激情;激怒;恋爱   (初中英语单词)
  • learnt [lə:nt] 移动到这儿单词发声  learn 的过去式(分词)   (初中英语单词)
  • dislike [dis´laik] 移动到这儿单词发声  vt.&n.不喜爱,厌恶   (初中英语单词)
  • therefore [´ðeəfɔ:] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.&conj.因此;所以   (初中英语单词)
  • disguise [dis´gaiz] 移动到这儿单词发声  vt.假装;隐瞒 n.伪装   (初中英语单词)
  • reward [ri´wɔ:d] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.&v.报答;报酬;奖赏   (初中英语单词)
  • percentage [pə´sentidʒ] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.百分数;比例;部分   (初中英语单词)
  • astonishment [ə´stɔniʃmənt] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.吃惊;惊异   (初中英语单词)
  • writing [´raitiŋ] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.书写;写作;书法   (初中英语单词)
  • acting [´æktiŋ] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.代理的 n.演戏   (初中英语单词)
  • manager [´mænidʒə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.经理;管理人;干事   (初中英语单词)
  • exhibit [ig´zibit] 移动到这儿单词发声  vt.展出 n.展览品   (初中英语单词)
  • extraordinary [ik´strɔ:dinəri] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.非常的;额外的   (初中英语单词)
  • performance [pə´fɔ:məns] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.履行;行为;工作   (初中英语单词)
  • wednesday [´wenzdi] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.星期三   (初中英语单词)
  • midnight [´midnait] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.午夜;漆黑   (初中英语单词)
  • rattle [´rætl] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.嘎吱声   (初中英语单词)
  • fierce [fiəs] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.残忍的;强烈的   (初中英语单词)
  • career [kə´riə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.经历;生涯;职业   (初中英语单词)
  • lonely [´ləunli] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.孤独的;无人烟的   (初中英语单词)
  • extremely [ik´stri:mli] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.极端地;非常地   (初中英语单词)
  • measure [´meʒə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.量度;范围 vt.测量   (初中英语单词)
  • boxing [´bɔksiŋ] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.拳击运动   (初中英语单词)
  • gallery [´gæləri] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.画廊;美术馆;长廊   (初中英语单词)
  • sharply [´ʃɑ:pli] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.锋利地;剧烈地   (初中英语单词)
  • patience [´peiʃəns] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.忍耐(力);耐心;坚韧   (初中英语单词)
  • consideration [kən,sidə´reiʃən] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.考虑;原因;体谅   (初中英语单词)
  • series [´siəri:z] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.连续;系列;丛书   (初中英语单词)
  • holiday [´hɔlidi] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.假日,假期,节日   (初中英语单词)
  • tremendous [tri´mendəs] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.可怕的;巨大的   (初中英语单词)
  • absurd [əb´sə:d] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.荒谬的,可笑的   (初中英语单词)
  • abroad [ə´brɔ:d] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.海外;到处;广泛   (初中英语单词)
  • continent [´kɔntinənt] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.大陆,陆地   (初中英语单词)
  • anywhere [´eniweə] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.无论何处;任何地方   (初中英语单词)
  • lasting [´lɑ:stiŋ] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.持久的;永远的   (高中英语单词)
  • decided [di´saidid] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.明显的;决定的   (高中英语单词)
  • unpleasant [ʌn´plezənt] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.不愉快的;不合意的   (高中英语单词)
  • fragrant [´freigrənt] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.芳香的,芬芳的   (高中英语单词)
  • caesar [´si:zə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.凯撒;暴君;独裁者   (高中英语单词)
  • proprietor [prə´praiətə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.所有人;业主;经营者   (高中英语单词)
  • margin [´mɑ:dʒin] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.边缘;空白;余地   (高中英语单词)
  • doubtful [´dautful] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.怀疑的,可疑的   (高中英语单词)
  • stately [´steitli] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.庄严的,雄伟的   (高中英语单词)
  • quaint [kweint] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.离奇的;奇妙的   (高中英语单词)
  • oriental [ɔ:ri´entl] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.东方人的   (高中英语单词)
  • tourist [´tuərist] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.游客,观光者   (高中英语单词)
  • nonsense [´nɔnsəns] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.胡说 int.胡说!废话   (高中英语单词)
  • superstition [,su:pə´stiʃən, ,sju:-] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.迷信(行为)   (高中英语单词)
  • stuffy [´stʌfi] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.不通气的;闷热的   (高中英语单词)
  • pilgrimage [´pilgrimidʒ] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.朝圣;远游;人生历程   (英语四级单词)
  • brutal [´bru:tl] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.兽性的;残暴的   (英语四级单词)
  • havana [hə´vænə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.哈瓦那   (英语四级单词)
  • wigwam [´wigwæm] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.棚屋,简陋的小屋   (英语四级单词)
  • brandy [´brændi] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.白兰地酒   (英语四级单词)
  • wanton [´wɔntən, ´wɑ:n-] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.顽皮的 n.&vi.荡妇   (英语四级单词)
  • bridge [bridʒ] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.桥(梁);鼻梁;桥牌   (英语四级单词)
  • burton [´bə:tn] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.复滑车   (英语四级单词)
  • ridden [´ridn] 移动到这儿单词发声  ride 的过去分词   (英语四级单词)
  • grandeur [´grændʒə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.伟大;富丽;壮观   (英语四级单词)
  • unlucky [ʌn´lʌki] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.倒霉的,不幸的   (英语四级单词)
  • rubbish [´rʌbiʃ] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.垃圾;碎屑;废话   (英语四级单词)
  • excursion [ik´skə:ʃən] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.短途旅行,游览;离题   (英语四级单词)
  • calico [´kælikəu] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.白棉布;印花布   (英语四级单词)
  • flannel [´flænl] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.法兰绒   (英语四级单词)
  • practicable [´præktikəbəl] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.可实行的;适用的   (英语六级单词)
  • exceptionally [ik´sepʃənli] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.异常地;极,很   (英语六级单词)
  • embryo [´embriəu] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.胚胎;萌芽时期   (英语六级单词)
  • madrid [mə´drid] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.马德里(西班牙首都)   (英语六级单词)
  • fodder [´fɔdə] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.饲料;创作素材   (英语六级单词)
  • nightfall [´nait,fɔ:l] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.黄昏;傍晚   (英语六级单词)
  • indignantly [in´dignəntli] 移动到这儿单词发声  ad.愤慨地,义愤地   (英语六级单词)
  • watery [´wɔ:təri] 移动到这儿单词发声  a.水的;像水的   (英语六级单词)
  • guinea [´gini] 移动到这儿单词发声  n.几尼(英国旧金币)   (英语六级单词)

  • 上传人 欢乐鱼 分享于 2017-06-26 18:35:03
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